How to Bond Rabbits - Part 2
There is a lot to cover when it comes to bonding rabbits. There are many different types of techniques that can be used. Bonding takes a lot of patience and commitment. Some rabbits will bond instantly, while others could take years. In my experience, when rabbits are a good match for one another, they can be bonded in about one month. While this may feel like a long time, it is absolutely worth the wait!
In part 2 of this blog series, you will learn:
Before You Begin
If you haven't read part 1 of this blog series, I highly recommend reading it first before proceeding. Part 1 covers the basics of picking the best match for your rabbit, rabbit speed dating, and good versus bad behaviours. This information will help to get your bonding experience off on the right foot.
Setting Up For Bonding
This is an important step that is sometimes overlooked by those who are eager to get things started. Before you bring home your new rabbit, you want to ensure you have the appropriate supplies and set up ready for housing and bonding. If possible, set the housing up in a neutral area that your rabbit hasn't been in. Alternatively, you can thoroughly clean the area and try to remove as much of your rabbit's scent as possible. Bonding sessions should always take place in a neutral area.
SUPPLIES:
CLEANING:
If you are planning to use an area of your home for housing or bonding, but your rabbit has already been in that area, you will need to thoroughly clean it. Rabbits are territorial over their space, so deep cleaning the area will help your rabbit feel less possessive of their space when you bring a new rabbit into it. Remove as much hay and fur as possible from the area and wipe down areas your rabbit frequently chins (baseboards, chairs, etc). Baking soda and vinegar are great rabbit safe products to use when cleaning. Clean any dishes, plastic toys and litter boxes thoroughly. Remove any porous items such as cardboard boxes and wooden toys/chews. Wash all blankets (or better yet, get new ones). If your rabbit is already using an xpen, and you plan on using it for bonding, wipe down the sides with white vinegar and remove any pieces of hay or fur. For carpet, sprinkle on baking soda and vacuum thoroughly. For hard floors, clean with vinegar or another appropriate cleaner for the floor type.
HOUSING:
I highly recommend setting up two 36" or taller xpens side by side in a square shape. This allows for the two rabbits to see and smell each other 24/7. You should leave a few inches of space between the xpens to prevent the rabbits from biting each other through the bars. Place an object in between the two xpens (such as a small bowl, ball, or I've even used a box my kitty litter comes in) to prevent the rabbits from pushing the xpens together - especially at the middle joint. Each xpen should contain food/hay and water dishes, a litter box, and a few toys. Make sure you have a soft, nonslip flooring under the xpens. Fleece blankets are a great option when tucked under the sides of an xpen, you can even place a tarp or cardboard beneath the fleece for extra protection against water spills and urine.
In part 2 of this blog series, you will learn:
- Setting up for bonding
- Early bonding techniques
Before You Begin
If you haven't read part 1 of this blog series, I highly recommend reading it first before proceeding. Part 1 covers the basics of picking the best match for your rabbit, rabbit speed dating, and good versus bad behaviours. This information will help to get your bonding experience off on the right foot.
Setting Up For Bonding
This is an important step that is sometimes overlooked by those who are eager to get things started. Before you bring home your new rabbit, you want to ensure you have the appropriate supplies and set up ready for housing and bonding. If possible, set the housing up in a neutral area that your rabbit hasn't been in. Alternatively, you can thoroughly clean the area and try to remove as much of your rabbit's scent as possible. Bonding sessions should always take place in a neutral area.
SUPPLIES:
- make sure you have extra dishes/hay racks/litter boxes to accompany the second rabbit
- two xpens that are at least 36" tall
- one small pet xpen
CLEANING:
If you are planning to use an area of your home for housing or bonding, but your rabbit has already been in that area, you will need to thoroughly clean it. Rabbits are territorial over their space, so deep cleaning the area will help your rabbit feel less possessive of their space when you bring a new rabbit into it. Remove as much hay and fur as possible from the area and wipe down areas your rabbit frequently chins (baseboards, chairs, etc). Baking soda and vinegar are great rabbit safe products to use when cleaning. Clean any dishes, plastic toys and litter boxes thoroughly. Remove any porous items such as cardboard boxes and wooden toys/chews. Wash all blankets (or better yet, get new ones). If your rabbit is already using an xpen, and you plan on using it for bonding, wipe down the sides with white vinegar and remove any pieces of hay or fur. For carpet, sprinkle on baking soda and vacuum thoroughly. For hard floors, clean with vinegar or another appropriate cleaner for the floor type.
HOUSING:
I highly recommend setting up two 36" or taller xpens side by side in a square shape. This allows for the two rabbits to see and smell each other 24/7. You should leave a few inches of space between the xpens to prevent the rabbits from biting each other through the bars. Place an object in between the two xpens (such as a small bowl, ball, or I've even used a box my kitty litter comes in) to prevent the rabbits from pushing the xpens together - especially at the middle joint. Each xpen should contain food/hay and water dishes, a litter box, and a few toys. Make sure you have a soft, nonslip flooring under the xpens. Fleece blankets are a great option when tucked under the sides of an xpen, you can even place a tarp or cardboard beneath the fleece for extra protection against water spills and urine.
Early Bonding Techniques
STEP 1
Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to bonding. For the first one or two weeks, you should avoid the temptation of putting the rabbits together. Instead, once a day (for minimum one week) either switch the litter boxes or rabbits into the other pen. This gives the rabbits an opportunity to live and adjust to the scent of the other rabbit. You can also try to keep food/hay and litter boxes close to the side where the other xpen is, to encourage the rabbits to be near each other. Don't be surprised if you find a "wall of poo" (a lot of poo in one stretch of space) near the other xpen -- this is a territorial behaviour. Simply clean the mess and place into the trash or litter box. You can continue this step until the rabbits are fully bonded.
STEP 2
After you have alternated litter boxes and/or rabbits for at least one week, you can start to let them meet face to face in a neutral area for short periods of time (15-30 minutes minimum every single day). I recommend using the small pet xpen (mentioned in supplies) for this, as it is light weight and easy to move. Set up the small xpen and sit in it with both of the rabbits. Bring in an item that allows you to safely separate the rabbits should they fight (oven glove, shoe, blanket/towel). Try starting the rabbits off in opposite corners and letting them find each other. Monitor them for a few moments (reference the good vs bad behaviour from Part 1), and interfere only if necessary. You can use this step to gage how much bonding work you will have to do (the more aggression between the two, the more work you will have to do).
STEP 3
To help keep the rabbits calm, try petting their heads and encouraging them to be still. If they are not showing any aggression towards each other, you can try to place them side by side and pet them at the same time; I call this technique "Fake Grooming". The idea behind it is that you want to simulate that the rabbits are being groomed by each other. If the rabbits are tolerant of each other, I will gently push their faces together as I am petting them. Through this, the rabbits are able to associate a positive experience with the scent and physical touch of the other rabbit. I use this technique frequently and all throughout my bonding sessions. It is a personal favorite to end each bonding session this way -- one of the most important parts of your bonding process is to ensure that the rabbits always end on a positive before you separate them. I will often do "fake grooming" for 20-30 min at a time. While still being early into the bonding process, you can end immediately after the "fake grooming", without allowing the rabbits to interact with each other further. I recommend continuing this step every day for about 5 days. If you are having issues reaching the point where the rabbits are comfortable enough to let you do this, please feel free to reach out to me directly for further support.
STEP 1
Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to bonding. For the first one or two weeks, you should avoid the temptation of putting the rabbits together. Instead, once a day (for minimum one week) either switch the litter boxes or rabbits into the other pen. This gives the rabbits an opportunity to live and adjust to the scent of the other rabbit. You can also try to keep food/hay and litter boxes close to the side where the other xpen is, to encourage the rabbits to be near each other. Don't be surprised if you find a "wall of poo" (a lot of poo in one stretch of space) near the other xpen -- this is a territorial behaviour. Simply clean the mess and place into the trash or litter box. You can continue this step until the rabbits are fully bonded.
STEP 2
After you have alternated litter boxes and/or rabbits for at least one week, you can start to let them meet face to face in a neutral area for short periods of time (15-30 minutes minimum every single day). I recommend using the small pet xpen (mentioned in supplies) for this, as it is light weight and easy to move. Set up the small xpen and sit in it with both of the rabbits. Bring in an item that allows you to safely separate the rabbits should they fight (oven glove, shoe, blanket/towel). Try starting the rabbits off in opposite corners and letting them find each other. Monitor them for a few moments (reference the good vs bad behaviour from Part 1), and interfere only if necessary. You can use this step to gage how much bonding work you will have to do (the more aggression between the two, the more work you will have to do).
STEP 3
To help keep the rabbits calm, try petting their heads and encouraging them to be still. If they are not showing any aggression towards each other, you can try to place them side by side and pet them at the same time; I call this technique "Fake Grooming". The idea behind it is that you want to simulate that the rabbits are being groomed by each other. If the rabbits are tolerant of each other, I will gently push their faces together as I am petting them. Through this, the rabbits are able to associate a positive experience with the scent and physical touch of the other rabbit. I use this technique frequently and all throughout my bonding sessions. It is a personal favorite to end each bonding session this way -- one of the most important parts of your bonding process is to ensure that the rabbits always end on a positive before you separate them. I will often do "fake grooming" for 20-30 min at a time. While still being early into the bonding process, you can end immediately after the "fake grooming", without allowing the rabbits to interact with each other further. I recommend continuing this step every day for about 5 days. If you are having issues reaching the point where the rabbits are comfortable enough to let you do this, please feel free to reach out to me directly for further support.
STEP 4
Once you have been successful with continuing step 3 for at least 5 days, you can shorten your "fake grooming" session down to 5 or 10 minutes and allow the rabbits to interact more with each other. If the rabbits begin to show any agitation towards each other, return to "fake grooming" or individual petting for a few minutes to relax them again. In short, you want to "fake groom", let the rabbits become alert and react to each other, monitor them and intervene when necessary. As long as there is no aggression, encourage the rabbits to be near each other.
Very easy going rabbits may be able to successfully bond by the repetition of step 4 over the course of 1-2 weeks, unfortunately most rabbits are more resistant and you will have to add in some extra bonding techniques.
Part 3 of the bonding blog series will cover:
Once you have been successful with continuing step 3 for at least 5 days, you can shorten your "fake grooming" session down to 5 or 10 minutes and allow the rabbits to interact more with each other. If the rabbits begin to show any agitation towards each other, return to "fake grooming" or individual petting for a few minutes to relax them again. In short, you want to "fake groom", let the rabbits become alert and react to each other, monitor them and intervene when necessary. As long as there is no aggression, encourage the rabbits to be near each other.
Very easy going rabbits may be able to successfully bond by the repetition of step 4 over the course of 1-2 weeks, unfortunately most rabbits are more resistant and you will have to add in some extra bonding techniques.
Part 3 of the bonding blog series will cover:
- Bonding techniques
- How do I know when my rabbits are bonded
- How to get bonded rabbits to live together